Backpacking Bliss

It's been two weeks since I hugged my Korean babies and said my good-byes. I can not even begin to describe how incredibly heartbreaking and rewarding it was at the end. I finally realized that I had made an impression. Teachers and children that I wouldn't have even imagined I had impacted in my 13 months were crying on my last day...it was an emotional whirlwind.

I had a little problem with my visa...basically, I was working and living illegally in Korea for the last week (thanks a lot Swaton), but immigration at the airport took care of everything...I think.

It seems like years instead of weeks since I left Korea and began my backpacking adventure in SE Asia. In the short span of time I've met amazing people from all over the world and have seen and experienced unbelievable beauty. My mind is constantly expanding, and I love the weariness and exiliration that only being on the move can bring.

I'm bringing this blog to an end, but plan to keep up my blogging on a new site:
Stiff Sideways Hugs

Thanks to everyone who has followed my journey and kept in contact this past year. Please know that I am so blessed and incredibly, unbelievably happy.

Hey Korean Won, Sort Yourself Out

December 17, 2007: 1,000,000 Korean Won = approx. 1,000 US dollars

currently...

December 17, 2008: 1,000,000 Korean Won = 705 US dollars

All You Need Are A Few Good Friends...

For awhile, I was trying to cram in as many festivals and short trips into my last few days. Now I prefer to spend my weekends without an agenda, soaking in Korea with fabulous friends, doing everything, doing nothing at all.

Plight of the cheap flight

Cheapoair just informed me that my flight to Bangkok has been changed.

I now have a four hour layover in Shenyang, China and an overnight layover in Guangzhou China. Essentially, it's going to take me longer to fly from Seoul to Bangkok than it would be for me to fly from Seoul to St. Louis. I mean, whatever, that's what I get for buying a dirt cheap flight. I'll take the extra hours for the reduced price.

Gotta gotta get up to get down.

Happy Pepero Day!

I cashed in on Pepero Day this year. Thank you Lotte for having enough brand power to create a holiday bigger than Valentine's Day (at least in Korea).


My kids have been amazing, making it harder for me to come to the realization that in a couple weeks we'll part ways, and I will most likely never see them again. Leaving is so bittersweet, and is more difficult than I thought it would be. Especially when I think about saying goodbye to my sweet babies. I can not even begin to describe the relationship I have established with these little ones. They've touched my heart, and I hope I've somehow found a place in theirs.

Oh, Jun.
Nicky.
Leah.
Dorothy

This week I scribbled down a few things that have amused me thus far:
Kindergarten
Me: "What do you want to be when you grow up?"
Jun: "A doctor."
Dorothy: "A doughnut."

Elementary
Me: (While giving the vocabulary test): "Maker...like a shoemaker or dressmaker."
Chris: "Chris' maker is his mother."

After telling my favorite class I was leaving in three weeks
Timothy: "Teacher's airplane boom (crashing hand motions), and Teacher, parachute (floating hand motions). Then Teacher, car (driving motions), come back to Korea."
That simple, eh?

Teaching has been so much more than a job.

Korea reacts

Seoul, Korea courtesy of Time

It was interesting experiencing the election from abroad. I think it's safe to say that on November 4rth, all eyes were on America. Personally, for once I think we didn't disappoint. Even after a week I get students who tell me they love Obama, or rock back and forth in their chairs chanting his name: "Obaaama, Obaaaama." Then, tip..tip...tip, crash!

Quirks and Characteristics

A lot of people think they are ugly, but for some reason I've always been obsessed with the big, white Korean apartment buildings. There's something both haunting and beautiful in the multitude of these faceless structures.

Same Same = Love love

Matching couples are all the rage in Korea. What better way to show your affection?

Guy: "I love you."
Girl: "Prove it."

Hey, remember that one fun night in Daejeon?

Pumpkins & Rice

Meet Wall-E
Filling carved pumpkins with rice.


Halloween lunch

This year I realized that going out on Halloween is a lot like New Years: you build up both holidays so much, that they end up being a let down and you're left feeling like this little guy:


I did, however, have a blast with the kids.

What made me smile today

1. Thinking about my crazy Wednesday night, trading in shots of soju for shots of Coke, while playing drinking games with a group of hilarious Korean guys...I can't wait to backpack with my chingu from Portland. I'm going to have abs of steel from laughing hysterically across SE Asia.


2. Jun in a suit.


3. My little hams.

Nobody

The only regret I have about my time spent in Korea, is that I never saw the Wonder Girls live:



I feel like they've grown up before my very eyes...This song has also gotten press in the US via Perez Hilton's blog...ehr, not that I ever read it or anything...

A Korean Mother Speaks Out

Yesterday morning, the mother of my 4 year old student, Nicky, came in to talk to me. She told me that she reads my comments on Nicky's report cards every month, and we talked a bit about her daughter...who is a phenomenal student. She has excellent classroom behavior, can already read English, and has an extensive vocabulary. Nicky's mother then asked me for a favor. She wanted me to record myself reading a speech that she had written for an English speaking competition, so she could work on her pronunciation. I of course agreed, and was blown away by what she had written:

If You Really Love Your Children, Turn a Deaf Ear to Others

The current situation in Korea is making us feel gloomy and uncertain about our future. It suddenly occurred to me, that despite this, many Korean moms are still fanatical about their children's private education. My subject today is, "If You Really Love Your Children, Turn a Deaf Ear to Others." This is to suggest that moms should pay more attention to what their children are interested in than how to provide them private lessons.

I had worked for a private English institute for five y ears before I got married. Even after my marriage, I kept taking English courses in cultural centers. As an ordinary mom of a four-year-old girl, I am more concerned about her emotional development than her education. This year, I was admitted into the third-year class of the Korea National Open University. To be a good English teacher for my daughter, I am now fully devoted to improving my English.

The most embarrassing thing I experienced while working as a visiting teacher was that most Korean moms showed an unusual enthusiasm for early-childhood education but had little consideration for the stress and pain they caused their children. Justifying to themselves that they are doing what is necessary to guarantee a better future for their children, they have actually deprived their children of the freedom they deserve.

In many cases, if a mom hears that the child next door learns something she forces her child to do the same. If her child doesn't get a good score on an exam, she regards it as a shame and pushes her child to blindly concentrate on problem-solving for the next exam. She seems to never realize that such pushing can be harmful to her child in the long term. My experience of this was a good lesson to me and led me to believe that Korean moms should try harder to understand their children better. If they do so, they won't be bothered or swayed by the raging winds of private education.

I believe education is like the 'rabbit and turtle' race where steadiness wins the race. If you run too fast, you might end up last. If you want your children to grow up to be useful members of society, you must try to be a good teacher to them and inspire them to study on their own without depending on private tuition.

It is the recent trend in Korea that moms are struggling to get a job to afford private education, rather than stay with them. I would like to strongly recommend that, instead of worrying about private education costs, Korean moms get into the habit of reading books to their children. If they do so, their relationship with their children will get even closer than before. The more time moms have to talk with their children, the more likely their children will grow up to be healthy, responsible and caring adults.

I used to read Korean and English stories to my daughter every night before she went to bed. Even when I was tired or sick, I didn't miss a day. My child seemed to take it as a bed-time game. After three years of my efforts, she began to read on her own. Recently she enjoys reading me English stories. It was a marvelous surprise to me.

Habits are highly contagious so it is very important for moms to teach their children good habits. Wherever the mom is, at home or at work, it is the mom that has the most influence on a child's habits. Once again I suggest that moms spend an hour a day caring for or playing with their children. It is their parental duty to try to understand what the children are interested in and what they are strong or weak in. Why don't Korean moms have the courage to slow down and become turtle moms?

I was impressed at how well she had written the speech, and also at her progressive way of thinking. As an English teacher in Korea, it's common knowledge that the kids are overworked to death. After their regular classes at public school, they fill their afternoon and evenings by attending different private academies or hagwons (specializing in English, Math, Chinese, Tae Kwan Do, Piano, etc). They get home late in the evening and are expecting to complete all their homework from the day. Even during February and March when kids have their "vacation" they double up on hagwon time. This period is known as "Intensives"...doesn't sound too relaxing, eh? All their lives, these kids have to live with the enormous pressure of working towards getting into that prestigious university.

Classrooms are named after Ivy League Schools at my hagwon.

It's so refreshing to hear a Korean parent think outside the norm and realize that a child's happiness is worth so much more than his or her "success." What's also amazing, is that because of this mother's loving approach, her daughter is doing incredible in her studies. I wish more Korean parents had the same mindset.

Nicky and babo Elizabeth Teacher at the sweet potato farm.
I've taught her well.

mysoju.com

I discovered the greatest blog that has Korean films posted with English subtitles. I just watched a teen flick full of angst and drama that included a love triangle, a hit and run, a father in jail, a mother in a mental hospital, amnesia, and a rock star miracle. Does it get any better?

Save the Date!

I booked my flight to Thailand! I'll begin my three month SE Asia backpacking adventure on December 1st. It's so weird to think that I'm on my 12th month in Korea. Living in this country has been one of the best decisions of my life. It saved me from that set path into the "corporate world" (I was in advertising, so not really, but you get the picture) that I didn't realize I was dreading. The blinders are off now, and I do realize that I have a million other options. I'm so excited to spend the rest of my 20s traveling, being spontaneous, living life, and doing what really makes me happy.

These past few weeks I've been trying to fill my days with as much of the Korean experience as I can, so I apologize for the lack of updates. I will get to them soon...maybe. For now I'm off to the Shisha House to partake in a delicious cloud of pineapple and an intense game of Rummy...I know, so hardcore.

Tara looks on in terror as I destroy her.

Hilarious yet horrifying

Original


SNL's take

Josh

I remember...

...pushing Alissa and Josh up and down the long gravel driveway at the old house in Desoto. I was 7, Alissa 2, Josh 1. How I remember that summer. My tomboyish ways, Alissa's curls, Josh's chubby cheeks. We were so innocent, untainted, and oblivious to everything but the simple joy of squeaking from one end of the road to the other...

...my Virginia Thanksgiving. Stuffing ourselves, playing card games, laughing until we cried. Kay peed her pants, I think someone fell out of a chair. Hysterical...

...coming home from college and spending the summer with my parents. Alissa and Josh were visiting. We had rented movies. Alissa fell asleep, while Josh and I stayed up watching the scary ones. We had both stuffed ourselves into my dad's recliner, even though we were awkwardly spilling out the sides. We didn't care, there was something comforting about being squashed together as the horrific scenes flashed over our faces. I hate scary movies, but Josh loved them. I could comply for my little nephew.

I hope he knows how much I love him.



Blast from the past

Rice cakes, twirling hanboks, and little league poses

Joshua Marlin Hall I love and miss you.
...
Last Friday in kindergarten we celebrated Chuseok, Korea's "Thanksgiving." We designed fans and made songpyeon (rice cakes). We also had a short stint of free time, in which I spent playing with my babies and taking pictures. The girls kept wanting me to watch as they twirled in their hanboks, and Jun kept sporting the little league stance every time I broke out the camera. Hilarious!

Can you guess my favorite baby?






Elizabeth Teacher's House from Elizabeth Holbrook on Vimeo

Devastated

Tragedy has engulfed my family with the death of my nephew. I feel heartbroken and helpless. Tammy and Alissa I love you.

I turned a little more Korean...

...the day I started buying fake glasses.

It's all about not looking directly into the camera.


I actually want to purchase a new pair of reading glasses while I'm in Korea. Apparently it's possible to get an eye exam and a new pair of trendy frames, for under 50 bones. Why the heck am I buying fake spectacles?

Ode to the KTX

There's something romantic, almost nostalgic about train rides. Rocking back and forth at a steady unsteady rhythm I close my eyes and remember to breathe. Rubik's cube in my lap, favorite pens spread out on my tiny tray. The Korean man beside me is reading the paper and moving his legs from side to side, matching the beat of the song playing on my ipod. The Skin of My Yellow Country Teeth. My flip flop clad feet give into the surrounding motions. The jumbled mess in my mind clears. This is my time to reflect. This is my therapy.

Geek to chic

Words can not describe my love for this music video. Usually it's the girl who goes from geek to babe, but in Korea it's all same same. Big Bang's killing it!



I love the one finger pointed upwards in triumph as he walks away. What's her problem anyway? I love a man in thick coke bottle glasses...no, really.

Upcoming Adventures!

I'm going to Jeju for the Chuseok (Korea's "Thanksgiving") holiday! I booked my flight and hostel last weekend, now I just have to work out the details. I'll be traveling solo, and I'm actually really excited about it. I can't wait to relax and get some beach time.
Courtesy of Flickr

I also made a new Korean friend last weekend, Ami. We're going for dinner with her "boy cousin" on Friday and hiking a mountain and drinking makgeolli next Saturday.

Ahhh, I just can't get enough of Korea! I am so happy and excited for these next three months!

Dog Cafe

You haven't lived (or laughed) until you've been to a dog cafe. Carly and I were lucky enough to stumble upon one the other day in Seoul. We had both read about it, but nothing could have prepared us for the wondrous experience. As soon as we walked into the door, we were met with the horrendous smell that can only come from massive amounts of dogs frolicking around in one tiny space. They were everywhere! Dogs of all shapes, sizes, and colors were jumping off tables, running around, and wallowing on the floor. The greatest thing? No one was even phased by it. Koreans calmly sipped their coffee as dogs leaped around them, slobbering on everything...but I mean, no big deal, the lint rollers were provided.


Puppy Cafe from Elizabeth Holbrook on Vimeo
Cool kids just ya know, chilling with the canines.

Dog abuse?
Hahahaha! I'm evil, but doofy animals kill me.
Eeensy weensy puppy
Tuckered out.

나는 한국을 사랑한다!

I can't believe that one of my best friends is actually here, living in Korea. How often does that happen? These past two weekends have reminded me how much I've missed Carly and our amazing random days. I now have someone here who knew me before Korea...someone who's part of my amazing circle of friends back home who know everything about me, including my insecurities, my flaws, and awkwardness. The ones who stood beside me during a low point in my life, and yet for some crazy reason still love me in spite of everything. The ease, comfort and happiness that I feel when I'm around them is indescribable. Everyone says they have amazing friends, but mine are truly keepers. I'm beyond happy that Carly's here...AND she came at the perfect time. Festivals, long weekends, and island getaways are just around the corner. I have three more months in Korea, and I want to drink in every single moment that I have left.

Reunited

A little blurb I jotted down the other day:
The rainy season has passed, leaving behind clear skies and beautiful weather. After six months of teaching my four year olds, they have truly become "my babies," warming my heart constantly with their little smiles and sticky hands. Lately when I walk into class, my elementary students start cheering uncontrollably. Last night I hiked my mountain in the dark and enjoyed the serenity and solitude at the top with happy Koreans. For some reason, I've had an abundant amount of energy this week. I'm meeting Tara in an hour to smoke some delicious shisha...
I couldn't be any more in love with Korea.

I love Song Chon Dong! (taken from my favorite classroom)

Spectacular

Hiking Mt Fuji during the night and watching the sunrise with hundreds of hikers from around the world, was quite possibly one of the most amazing things I've experienced in my life. It took eight grueling hours (8pm-4am) of braving the bitter cold rain, adjusting to the altitude, and waiting in long lines up the mountain, but the end result was well worth it. When the sun started to peak through the clouds, for one brief moment we were all connected, all the hikers from around the world, and everything just made sense. Simply amazing.






A magical, spectacular, glorious experience from Elizabeth Holbrook on Vimeo

He's got two left feet, and he bites my moves

This song is deliciously delightful and while I remember Tara singing the lyrics months ago, it is now my current obsession. It's toe tapping, arm pumping, dance down the street with ipod in hand while Koreans stare at the babo waygook (crazy foreigner) good.

Back

I'm back in the land of the morning calm.

I've spent the past week just trying to readjust to life in Korea. I have a new schedule with new classes and kids. My schedule has been so stagnant that I've forgotten how much I love getting new students...like Oscar the biggest little nerd with round wire rimmed glasses and a squeaky voice. I love the geeky kids.

I also have a new class with three students that I had in the first two months of teaching at Swaton. I hadn't seen them in 7 months, and when I walked in the classroom they shouted my name excitedly. It's so crazy how much they've developed and grown since I last taught them. One of the girls proudly showed me that she still had the pen I gave her as a Christmas gift. "Look teacher, you gave to me." It was such a small gesture, but so often I feel replaceable, as if my efforts don't matter, and it was nice to know that after 7 months these students still remembered/appreciated me.

I rejoined the gym. The weather has cooled off a bit to where I can exercise more outside, but I've missed the posters of photoshopped small, white, Asian heads on big, overly tanned, muscular bodies. Also, I'm doing the Nike 10 K Human Race in Seoul at the end of the month.

Japan was amazing (posts and pictures coming soon), but it's good to be back. We have a three day holiday next weekend and I'm ready for another Korean adventure.

JAPAN!

Tomorrow I begin my journey to Japan. I'm flying into Tokyo and catching a train to the Mt. Fuji fest. Assah! To give you a little taste of what I'll be experiencing, here's a short documentary from last year's festival. Enjoy:

Spectacular.

Randoms

The application, in the words of my students, is "finish-eeeeee!" Now all I can do is wait. I'm not feeling uuber confident that I'll get the position, but at least it's inspired me to do something more with my time in Korea.

Two shows have made it to Korean television: The Office and Sunset Tan. You win some, you lose some.

We have a new foreign teacher at our school, Lisa, from England. She's positive, energetic and I really like her. We also have a new Korean teacher, Sunny, who seems really cool. I hope she sticks it out.

Today after my last kindergarten class, my 4 year olds handed me their balloons so I could take the tape off the ends (they were hanging on the wall during class). When I got to Nicky's balloon, I tugged a little too hard on the tape and the balloon exploded in a million pieces. I watched as her face went from shock to disappointment and I knew the tears were just a few blinks away. Sure enough, even though I promised her another balloon, she cried and cried, while I was left feeling like the biggest jerk. Even after I gave her another balloon, a bigger and better one, she still looked at me with hurt filled eyes that seemed to say, I don't trust you anymore, because I know now that you can make mistakes too. My babies always look at me like I'm a super hero who can fix any of their problems. Nicky's distrustful eyes broke my heart and reminded me of that point in your life when you realize that your parents aren't perfect...wow, I don't think I can have kids.

Japan is a week away. I'm currently trying to sort out the last minute details of our trip. The more I plan, the more excited I get. I know I'm going to fall in love with the country and add another destination on my list of places to live. I'm in desperate need of a vacation, and maybe even some time away from Korea. I haven't left the country since Hong Kong/Beijing over Christmas break.



I'm going to a film festival outside of Seoul this weekend.

I'm late for my dinner plans. Peace.

Weekend of Solitude

I think I'm the only foreigner in Korea who didn't attend the Mud Festival this weekend. While wallowing (pronounced "wallerin" where I come from) around in the mud and getting sloshed with a bunch of other Westerners sounded appealing to everyone this weekend, I desperately needed solitude. My friend, Joel, came to visit for a week and we cram packed as much as we could during his time in Korea (Seoul, the DMZ, hiking, eating delicious Korean food, temple stay...), and except for a day off, I had my full teaching schedule. Also, Amy and Carina left a week ago today, proving that nothing is permanent, especially in Korea. As if to bring this point home, right after the girls left, the thrift store on my street that I've passed every day for 8 months has shut down. A seafood restaurant is in it's place. No amount of fish is going to replace where I got the one armed slinger (ridiculous crappy backpack that gets poked fun at constantly). Deep sigh. I miss Amy so much. Already. She was a little piece of home (we went to the same high school), and an awesome person that I grew incredibly close to since my time in Korea. No more Sunday nights at Pizza 2001. However, she is coming back in the fall to attend Korean classes at Seoul University AND, drum roll...CARLY AND DAVID SAX ARE COMING TO KOREA! I haven't allowed myself to fully experience excitement and joy of their arrival. I just can't do it until they are here. My brain can't fathom it.

The main reason I stayed home this weekend was to complete an application that is due on Monday (EST) for a "project" that I really want to get. Vague, I know, but I don't want to announce what it is, partly because I may be a little superstitious, and partly while filling out the application, I've begun to doubt myself and think that my chances are slim. It doesn't hurt to apply, right?

Lately I've been feeling really antsy. One of the main things that I loved about coming to Korea was separating myself from Western ideas and pressures, mainly that my career path defined my worth in life. However, lately I've almost felt a loss of identity. The J-School, advertising, my internships...they were a big part of my life, and without them I'm struggling a bit with what my purpose is supposed to be. I enjoy teaching, but it's not my passion. I need something to pour my ideas into, a creative outlet. I need a project.

It's Sunday night and I haven't accomplished as much as I would have liked. I've been fighting with my Mac and incompatible external hard drive all weekend, trying to create more space on my computer...and let's face it, I'm a procrastinator. I'll write a sentence for my letter of intent, and then watch two episodes of 30 Rock, clean my apartment, or write a blog. I've been compulsively eating ramen, raisins, and Nutri-Grain Bars (I made a trip to Cost Co). I guess it could be worse. Wish me luck and cross your fingers.

Funnest game of foosball with a jank table. I miss the Boppster.